PORTFOLIO
Each project carried out in my tailoring studio is a unique story in which the personality and style of the person for whom we are creating plays the main role. It is not only a process of sewing clothes, but also the careful creation of works that are designed not only to perfectly fit the figure, but above all to reflect the character and individual preferences of the client.
This work philosophy allows us to create suits that reflect the wearer's personal style and life values, while emphasizing the mastery of craftsmanship and the extraordinary attention we devote to every, even the smallest, detail.
WEDDING SUIT
This suit was ordered by a client for a wedding. The ceremony took place in the summer, outdoors, and the weather was expected to be sunny. In such orders, thermal comfort is particularly important. A groom wearing clothes that are too warm will not look elegant.
The fabric ensured excellent breathability of the clothes - navy blue Fresco Lite from Hardy Minnis.
Tailoring enthusiasts are usually familiar with Fresco - a woolen fabric made of high-twist yarn with a weave so loose that it is transparent when held against the light. Its characteristic features are high grammage for a summer fabric, low crease and high roughness, which not everyone likes.
Fresco Lite is a more pleasant to the touch version of this fabric. It is lighter, softer and has a less visible texture. This means that, unlike regular Fresco, which is quite workable, it is well suited for more formal clothes.
The cut is a timeless classic - a single-breasted jacket with regular lapels, fastened with two buttons, pockets with flaps. Light shoulder padding gives an elegant straight line. The jacket was sewn with a half-lining, which additionally protected against overheating. The trousers were quite loosely cut with pleats and medium-high waisted and did not have a knee-length lining (lining reaching below the knee).
SUIT
A suit made to order by the same client as the wedding suit described above. This comparison shows how different jackets can be made for the same person. This time, the client who wanted to experiment a little asked for a jacket with a completely different shoulder line. This cut is called because of its similarity to the shape of a pagoda's roofpagoda shoulders. It was often seen in the 1970s, today it is an extravagance. I accepted this order with pleasure, because it is a big technical challenge and something very unusual. To make such arms, you need to cut them differently, construct pillows of the appropriate shape and skillfully shape the material with an iron (know where to insert and where to stretch). To make the whole thing look proportionate and stylistically coherent, wide lapels were necessary. Another unusual solution is a single-button fastening. The fabric is gorgeous Lumb's Golden Bale from H.Lesser.
JACKET
I made this jacket for Bernhard Roetzl - a journalist and author of books, including the bestseller "Gentleman. Timeless Fashion. Bernhard supplied his own fabric. This is beautiful linen (360 g/m) from Maison Hellard - a company founded in 2021 by Nathan Hellard. This young entrepreneur decided to produce unique linens, woven in Italy from linen from Normandy, which are characterized by unique patterns.
Bernhard is famous for his preference for the English style, which inspired him when choosing his jacket. To better illustrate expectations, he brought to the meeting a jacket made on Savile Row 20 years earlier. He planned a slightly longer jacket than current standards: a looser cut, three-button closure, slanted flap pockets, flared shoulders and, unusually for tailoring, a low-set armhole. This is an unusual request, because the shallower the armhole, the less the jacket limits the range of movements. Customers who know this usually expect the sleeves to be sewn in as high as possible. The customer preferred the opposite solution, because the higher cut under the arms made him too warm.
Bernhard described the order description on his website .
JACKET / SWALLOW
Jacket, also called swallow jacket. This is the most formal daywear. The jacket is characterized by knee-length tails, a single button fastening and peak lapels. Traditionally, it is worn with artificial trousers (gray with black stripes) and a vest. This type of clothing is most often seen at weddings of members of European royal families. It is also part of the Dress Code of the Royal Ascot horse race.
The client ordered it for his wedding where he wanted to wear something more formal than a suit.
Fabrics are heavy wools from Dugdale Bros.
COAT: GUARDS COAT
The English call this type of coat a Guards Coat and its cut is inspired by the coats worn by British officers of the Royal Guard. Its characteristic features are a double-breasted cut and a half belt (dragon) on the back. Usually made of navy blue fabric.
The client ordered it for formal occasions requiring standing outside in winter or late autumn.
The selected fabric is thick wool with a grammage of 750g/m2 from the British Dugdale Bros. mill. An interesting detail is the weave creating a barely visible herringbone pattern.
The button arrangement is 6×2 (six buttons, two fastened). We decided that peak lapels and flap pockets, being more formal, would work well in this project. Apart from the belt on the back, the military origins of the Guards Coat are emphasized by the folded cuffs.
The coat reaches 5 cm below the knee, which I think is the perfect length for double-breasted, heavy coats.